DATE: Victorian, c.1910

Stunning antique carved half-hoop ring set with five vibrant red spinels - cushion cut stones that slightly graduate in size towards the middle. It's crafted in 15 karat gold with highly ornate openworked shoulders and pierced scrolled detailing to the gallery. English, circa 1910.

Spinel is a little known and hugely under-appreciated gemstone. It comes in a range of colours, from deep purples and blues to bright reds and hot pinks. Indeed, for thousands of years, spinels were often mistaken and mis-sold as sapphires and rubies, before a technique was eventually determined to tell the gems apart in the 18th century. The stone known as the "Black Prince's Ruby" is perhaps the most famous example of spinel-mistaken-for-ruby. It's an impressive 170 carat vibrant crimson gem, the largest uncut spinel in the world, and one of the oldest set in England's Imperial State Crown (that's the one worn at coronations, and at state openings of parliament - currently on display in the Tower of London) with a history stretching back to the 14th century. Most likely mined in the mountains of Afghanistan, it was demanded by Edward of Woodstock, son of king Edward III, in 1367 for his help stamping out a rebellion against Spain's Don Pedro (the Cruel), king of Castille and León. Since then it's been worn at least twice by an English king in battle: Henry V wore it on his gem-encrusted helmet during the battle of Agencourt (said helmet was nearly cleaved in two by the Duke of Alençon's battleaxe, so it's a wonder that both gem the king survived), and by Richard III at the battle of Bosworth. A battle that Richard famously did not survive.

STONES 

Red Spinel

MEASUREMENTS 

Width at head: 6.7mm

Width of band: 1.3mm

Rise off finger: 4mm

WEIGHT 

3.7g

MARKS 

No marks present, tests as 15k gold 

CONDITION 

Good, some general wear commensurate with age and use